Organic Gardening

From Down Under

 

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Chook Poo    
is high in potassium.   and makes great Liquid fertilizer.                    

You can dig Chicken Poo into the garden, or use it in your compost as a compost activator. 

Liquid Fertilizer is also a Great Asset for the Organic Gardener; not only is it a very good plant booster and foliage spray, it can also be used as a form of pest control.

The equipment you will require is a container (metal or plastic) around 45 litres (10 gallons) capacity, preferably with a lid to keep the flies and mozzies out. You will also require a watering can, a small bucket and a sieve to strain the brew into the watering can. (sieving to prevent clogging of the watering cans’ nozzle.)

How do I make Liquid Fertilizer Suspend a hessian bag half full with Chicken Poo (tea bag) into a drum so that it’s covered with fresh water, give the tea bag a jiggle every couple of days, the brew will be ready for use within a fortnight. 

WARNING         Dilute 25/75 for young seedlings, 50/50 for established plants.   (like a weak tea)

More on Liquid Fertilisers

CHICKENS

There is a lot to say in favour of having your own fresh eggs, a supply of wholesome chemical free poultry manure and disposers of unsuitable composting material (eg meat scraps and baked vegetables).                     

There are also disadvantages: The main ones being; the initial cost of pen and pullets; chickens grow old and stop laying long before they die and therefore become non-contributing pets; they need supervision if they are allowed to roam free because apart from eating grubs they also enjoy new green shoots and digging large craters in which to sunbathe; their pen needs to be kept clean, dry and vermin free at all times and there are no chook hostels to lodge them in when you go on holiday.   If this appals you read no further; if you think the effort worthwhile read on.

Pens: A concrete slab base is best but if cost prohibits then concrete strip bases on each of the 4 sides of the pen are still necessary to sit the frame on. If you do not have this protection, the wood of the frame will rot more quickly, the hens will be able to escape and vermin (rats) will soon be able to dig in.There are ready to assemble kits available but if you decide to make your own then there are a number of essential inclusions to cater for. Chickens must have an area that is always dry so at leat half the pen should have sides, a back and a roof and the floor area should drain well. As well as bird wire sides, the top and under the roof should have wire to prevent vermin entering the pen. Chickens need to perch at night and they prefer to be high up in the pen, so there must be plenty of perch space under the roof and a means to access it (lower perches or a "ladder"). Make the door into the pen big enough for you to enter but no bigger. This helps prevents escapes as you enter to feed, gather eggs or clean. Nesting box/boxes with enough spaces for all your hens should be in a dry area and off the ground and should be half filled with clean straw. Chickens require a constant supply of clean water. They soon muddy or tip up bowls of water and a special dispenser is really a necessity. Look at the design of one in your local produce outlet and make your own.

Choosing your birds: Chickens enjoy each others company so I would suggest a minimum of 4 birds. This is plenty for a family of four. Day old chicks are cute but there will be a twenty week wait for eggs. Make sure your birds are vaccinated. If the birds are adults (with fully red combs) check their feet. Young birds feet and legs are white and clean. Older birds legs start to yellow and scale. Make sure the birds are bright eyed and lively.  One rooster will look after a lot of hens but can be a noisy nuisance and many councils do not allow roosters at all (you should also check your local council to see if there are regulations on chickens). You may require a rooster to protect the chickens and you certainly need one for fertile eggs.

Feed: When the birds are young it is better to feed them a prepared chick raising mix. This will ensure they get an ideal composite food. As they get older introduce food scraps and weeds. Remove uneaten leftovers every day (hygiene). When they are mature, a handful of chicken pellets is enough if you give them plenty of scraps, weeds, grasses etc to scratch through. Leave the dirt attached to the roots as there are insects there to find. Put the pellets in a tin and rattle it before feeding them. If they are let loose during the day, they will always come running to that sound and it makes locking them up for the night much easier.

Eggs: Wipe but do not wash dirty eggs. Store in order so you use the oldest first.

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